We’ll start our western Sicilian tour in Monteale on the Tyrrhenian Sea just west of the capital of Palermo. We’ll meander east and south to the city of Marsala on the Mediterranean Sea, and then head southeast along the Mediterranean Sea to Agrigneto.

Monteale, is a city of about thirty thousand, is situated a few miles southwest of Sicily’s capital Palermo. It is best known for its Duomo (Cathedral), which like so many other Sicilian churches is a product of the Norman conquest. This Cathedral was built from the years 1174 to 1185. The Monteale Duomo is often considered the finest example of Norman architecture in all of Sicily, and believe me there are a lot of competitors.

Can you believe that the interior of this magnificent building contains much more than an acre of gold mosaics? Everywhere you look there is plenty to see, for example, the bronze doors contain over forty biblical scenes, while the north door has over forty panels of evangelists and saints. Make sure to visit the nearby cloister surrounded by beautifully decorated glass mosaics. Finish your tour on the belvedere with its magnificent view of the Conca d’Oro (Golden Conch) Valley.

The town of Erice whose population is less than thirty thousand lies about one half mile above sea level. You’ll love its two castles, Pepoli Castle dating from Saracen (Arabic) times and Venus Castle dating from Norman times, built on what some say was the most famous Greek temple dedicated to the goddess Venus. The city contains the remains of walls from the days of the Phoenicians and the little known Elymians, perhaps descendants of the Trojans. Erice holds many scientific conferences. Capo San Vito is a cape situated approximately twenty-five miles (forty kilometers) northeast of Erice. It claims to have the most beautiful beach in all of Italy. Every September it holds a five-day international competition for couscous, a North African semolina-based dish.

The abandoned city of Segesta, about an hour’s drive southwest of Sicily’s capital Palermo, is home to one of the best-preserved Greek Temples, built by Elymians under Greek rule around 430 B.C. Legend has it that they built the temple to impress the Athenians of their wealth in order to enlist Athens against a nearby city supported by Siracuse. Once Athen’s envoys Segesta left work on the temple stopped. The temple remains incomplete, but magnificent. Segesta also boasts the ruins of a Greek amphitheater that presents classic Greek theater (in Italian), a Norman castle, and a small church.

The city of Marsala whose population is about eighty thousand was the major Carthaginian base in Sicily during its wars against Greece and Rome. The city name comes from the Arabic words for great port or Ali’s port. Marsala played an important role in Italian history as the landing point of Italian national hero Garibaldi’s one thousand red shirt combatants who fought for the reunification of Italy.

Today Marsala brings to mind the wine much loved by the British (and others) for well over two hundred years. Should you visit this city make sure to see the Museo Archeologico Baglio Anselmi (Baglio Anselmi Archeological Museum) with its warship and artifacts believed to date from the First Punic War in 241 B.C. You may also want to make reservations to visit the Donnafugata Winery in downtown Marsala. Yes, they do give samples. We have reached the western tip of the island and now head south and east.

Selinunte was the site of a Greek colony founded in the Seventh Century B. C. This colony prospered for hundreds of years until destroyed by the Carthaginians in 409 B. C. Thousands of its inhabitants were slaughtered and most who weren’t killed were enslaved. The city’s seven temples were destroyed; only one has been restored but the ancient market has been excavated.

We terminate our virtual tour of western Sicily at Agrigento, historic city and site of Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) arguably the finest Greek ruins outside of Greece. The classic Greek poet Pindar called it “the most beautiful city built by mortal men.” Prepare your trip carefully, summers in this part of the world are very, very hot, and while you don’t want to get sick, you don’t want to rush through the site which contains several buildings worth visiting.

Each one of the Valle dei Templi temples is unique. We’ll briefly examine five of them, going from west to east. The Tempio di Castore e Polluce (Temple of Castor and Pollux) is somewhat messy. It was reconstructed well over one hundred years ago by people who didn’t know what they were doing. They slapped together elements from diverse ruins on the site. The Tempio di Giove (Temple of Jupiter) was never completed. At more than 330 feet (about 130 meters) long it was one of the largest Greek temples ever built. The Tempio di Ercole (Temple of Hercules) is the most ancient of these temples. It was partially reconstructed over eighty years ago. The Tempio della Concordia (Temple of Concord) is said to be the best-preserved Greek temple on earth. In the Sixth Century it was converted into a Christian church and restored in the Eighteenth Century. Everything is still there except for the roof and the treasury. Not surprisingly, you are not allowed inside but you can appreciate it from a reasonable distance. The Tempio di Giunone (Temple of Juno) offers a spectacular view of the valley below. Believe it or not traces remain of a fire that burned over twenty-four hundred years ago.

Across from the Temple of Castor and Pollux are several small temples that you may want to see as well. The Hellenistic and Roman Quarter consists of four ancient streets paved with mosaics and a few Roman house foundations. Right nearby is the Museo Archeologica Regionale (Regional Archeological Museum) with lots of antiquities. What about food? Sicily’s great food goes back as far as its beautiful buildings and ruins. Every conquest, and there were several, brought new foods to this island. Sometimes new foods such as tomatoes made their way peacefully to Sicilian tables. Organic food has become fairly popular in Sicily. Of all the Italian regions only the neighboring island of Sardinia produces more organic food. Certified Sicilian food products include olives, olive oil, cheese, tomatoes, oranges, table grapes (I prefer them fermented), and pears.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Macco (Fava Bean puree). Then try Involtini alla Siciliana (Meat Roulade stuffed with Salami and Cheese). For dessert indulge yourself with Sgrappino (Whipped Lemon Sherbert with Spumante). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude with a quick look at Sicilian wine. Sicily is number one among Italy’s twenty regions when it comes to the acreage devoted to wine grapes and to the total annual wine production. And an independent Sicily would be the world’s seventh largest wine producer. It may be surprising but only slightly more than fifty percent of Sicilian wine is red. Sicily produces nineteen DOC wines. The term DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which we can translate as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. Only about 2% of Sicilian wine carries this sometimes prestigious classification. But there are many Sicilian wines without the DOC classification, sometimes by choice.

When you live in Alto Adige you have to declare your first language: choices include Italian (26.5%), German (69%), and Ladin (4%). There is a German-speaking majority in fully 103 of 116 communes, and only 5 have an Italian-speaking majority. We won’t go into the sometimes painful history of German-Italian relations in Alto Adige except to say that the relations are now fairly good. As a tourist you’ll be able to enjoy the two cultures.

We’ll start our tour of Alto Adige at Caldaro near the border with Trentino. Then we will proceed basically clockwise visiting Naturno and Bolzano (the regional capital and largest city), and then pass the following towns and ski resorts which we won’t have time to visit on this tour: Chiusa, Bressanone, Brunico, and Dobbiaco. We resume visiting at Cortina d’Ampezzo, and proceed west to Canazei and to Lago di Carezza only about 22 kilometers (14 miles) from our starting point. We’ll do something here that we haven’t done previously. We present the place name in Italian and the German name in parentheses. Alto Adige, called Sued Tyrol in German, is still heavily German speaking and retains a distinctive Germanic, or more exactly Austrian, character.

Caldaro (Kaltern) is a village of about 7500 residents that annually attracts over 400,000 tourists. So you know the basis of its economy. Its architecture is a pleasing combination of Italian Renaissance and German Gothic elements as exemplified in the historic Church of Santa Caterina in the town center. The Caldero Lake claims to be the warmest in the Alps and so is enjoyable from May to September. Visit the Museo Provinciale del Vino (Provincial Wine Museum) situated in a princely manor. Caldaro is in South Tyrol’s best wine region and you can walk from the museum to vineyards growing rare and ancient grape varieties.

The horticultural center of Naturno (Naturns) whose population is approximately five thousand, is near the westernmost point of our tour. Be sure to see the Seventh Century Church of San Procolo, especially its ancient frescoes which are among the oldest in the German-speaking world. Then drive a bit west to the Thirteenth Century Castel Juval now owned by Reinhold Messner, who holds two Mount Everest firsts. He climbed it solo and he climbed it without additional oxygen. This castle has become an inn, a winery, and a museum devoted to mountaineering and Tibetan art.

Bolzano (Bozen) is the capital of the autonomous province of Alto Adige. Its population is about 100,000, many of whom are German speaking. However, Bolzano does have a heavy majority of Italian speakers. This is one city where you will definitely be able to hear two languages and enjoy two cultures.

Perhaps you will start with the Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige (South Tyrol Archeological Museum) whose star attraction is Oetzi, the more than five thousand year old iceman discovered in Italy near the Austrian border in 1991. The museum offers many other exhibits, both predating and postdating the world’s oldest naturally preserved body.

The Gothic Duomo (Cathedral) was built from the Twelfth to Fourteenth Centuries. Of particular interest are its frescoes and stone pulpit. The Porta del Vino (Wine Gate) on the outside of the building shows peasants at work in the vineyards. Remember, this is wine country. The Fourteenth Century Chiesa dei Domenicani (Dominican Monastery) was badly damaged over the centuries including during World War II. Some of its paintings and frescoes are in bad shape, however others are magnificent.

Other churches to see include the Thirteenth Century Chiesa dei Domenicani (Dominican Church), which hosts Bolzano’s best collection of paintings and frescoes, its chapel Cappella di San Giovanni, and the Twelfth Century Vecchia Parrochiale (Old Parish Church) with a Romanesque crucifix predating the church itself and a Fifteenth Century Gothic wooden altar.

The vine covered Thirteenth Century Castel Mareccio (Mareccio Castle) is now a congress center with a courtyard that can accommodate up to two hundred people. A transparent roof ensures year round availability. The castle’s frescoes can be seen only on Tuesdays in a free guided tour, either in Italian or in German.

Make sure that you visit Bolzano’s two main squares. A statue of Neptune, god of the sea, overlooks the produce market in the Piazza delle Erbe. Go there before lunchtime and bring a picnic basket. The Piazza Walther with its Monument to Walther honors a local hero, the wandering minstrel Walther von der Vogelweide, a sort of Twelfth Century Bob Dylan.

Do you like walking? If so, enjoy numerous beautiful promenades including the 8 kilometer (5 mile) Passeggiata del Guncina with its view of the city, the Passeggiata di Sant’Osvaldo (Oswald Promenade) skirting vineyards on the edge of the city, and Passeggiate del Lungotalvera (Lungotalvera Promenade) along the river in the middle of town.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is a fairly exclusive, mostly Italian speaking, winter resort. Cortina was supposed to host the 1944 Winter Olympics but because of World War II had to wait until 1956. Known as “The Pearl of the Dolomites,” it lies in a meadow some 4000 feet (1.2 kilometers) above sea level, surrounded by mountains. Its great site has made Cortina the location of many popular films such as The Pink Panther and For Your Eyes Only. It seems that younger Italians prefer Madonna di Campiglio, described in our companion article on Trentino.

Canazei is popular, mostly German speaking, winter resort in the Val di Fassa. Among its attractions are lovely little village and slopes for all levels of skiers. Be sure to take the cable car up to Col Rodella for a truly magnificent view of the mountains.

We finish our tour of this beautiful region at the mile-high glacier lake, Lago di Carezza. In this lake you can see reflections of the surrounding forests and mountains. We’re almost back to our starting point of Caraldo. Don’t you feel like doing this circular tour again? There is so much that we have seen, but there is so much that we haven’t seen yet.

What about food? Alto Adige has a definite Austro-Tyrolean flavor. The most popular foods include wursts, cabbage dishes, dumplings, and potatoes. Pork is big, especially Speck, Austrian smoked ham. One local specialty that I have no intention of trying is salami made from donkey. I’ll stick with the sauerkraut.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Sauersuppe (Tyrolean Tripe Soup). Then try Zuppa al Vino Bianco (Stew with White Wine). For dessert indulge yourself with Kastanientorte (Pureed Chestnut Cake). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Trentino-Alto Adige wine. Trentino-Alto Adige ranks number 16 among the 20 Italian regions when it comes to acreage devoted to wine grapes and number 14 for total annual wine production. The region produces about 55% red and 45% white wine. There are eight DOC wines of which three are found in Alto Adige (one DOC wine is shared with Trentino and another with Trentino and with Veneto.) DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably indicating a high-quality wine. A whopping 79.1% of Trentino-Alto Adige wine carries the DOC designation, this is by far the highest percentage in Italy. The Alto Adige DOC designation is divided into several subzones. The most recent Trento-Alto Adige wine that I tasted was a Vino Novello (New Wine) that probably wasn’t typical of Trento-Alto Adige wine but was typical of Vino Novello wine. The less said the better. However, there are several fine Alto Adige wines. The San Leonardo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, is said to be quite good but is pricey. You may do well with a less expensive bottle based on the local red Lagrein grape, if you can find one.

Over the millennia Lombardy has been in the hands of numerous invaders including the Etruscans and the Gauls, then the Romans, Franks, and Goths, and finally the French, Spaniards, and Austrians. Did we forget the Lombards? These invaders all left their mark, some more and some less. Keep local history in mind as you tour this impressive region.

We begin our tour at Pavia about twenty-five miles (forty kilometers) south of Milan. Then we proceed southeast to Cremona. We continue east to finish this short tour at Mantua near the Veneto border.

Once upon a time little Pavia (population about 70 thousand) was a major rival of nearby Milan (city population about 1.3 million and metropolitan population over 5 million.) Its defeat by the Barbarians in 476 commonly marks the end of the Western Roman Empire. Almost nine hundred years later the internationally known University of Pavia was founded, based on a law and divinity school established by the year 825. Count Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta was the most famous individual associated with this university. It was Volta who discovered methane gas and invented the electric battery. Whenever you think about volts and voltage, you should think about Pavia.

Arguably the most famous native of Pavia was Benedetto Cairoli, the 13th and 15th Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Italy. He was somewhat of a hero during Risorgimento (the fight for Italian independence) but had a relatively undistinguished career as Prime Minister with a single exception. Cairoli risked his life and was severely wounded when he successfully protected the unpopular King Umberto I from assassination early in his reign. Now let’s consider Pavia’s sights.

Pavia is home to many other churches worth seeing. The Lombard-Romanesque San Michele Maggiore Church was constructed on the site of a preexisting Lombard church. Initially destroyed a few years after the turn of the first millennium it was rebuilt during the Twelfth Century. The Basilica of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro (St. Peter in Golden Sky) actually originated in the beginning of the Seventh Century. Its name refers to gold leaf mosaics that formerly decorated parts of the ceiling. This basilica was featured in Bocaccio’s Decameron. You may also want to see the Thirteenth Century brick Santa Maria del Carmine Church and the Renaissance Santa Maria di Canepanova Church.

Head about five miles (eight kilometers) north of town to see Pavia’s number one attraction, the Fifteenth Century Certosa di Pavia (Charterhouse of Pavia) monastery. This complex, which took over a century to build, is considered an excellent expression of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It includes a great collection of paintings and stained glass windows. The church was meant to house the tombs of its owners, the noble Visconti family but only one family member is actually buried there. His tomb took over sixty years to build. Nearby is the tomb of another Duke and his wife Beatrice d’Este, a real Renaissance woman and a beauty as well, who died in childbirth at age 22. You may have heard of her sister-in-law, Lucrezia Borgia.

The city of Cremona, population about seventy thousand, was first settled well over two thousand years ago. The famous Roman poet Virgil went to school there and owned a family farm in the vicinity. Another name is indelibly linked to this city, that of Antonio Stradivari, the world’s greatest violinmaker. His masterpieces are simply the world’s best-known and most expensive stringed instruments. As they say about yachts, if you have to ask the price, you can’t afford it. It’s not sour grapes, but frankly what would I do with a Stradivari violin, or mandolin? Perhaps trade it for vintage wine and Champagne.

The violin as we know it was invented in Cremona around 1564 by Andrea Amati who died more than sixty years before Stradivari was born. The Guarneri family created world famous violins here and elsewhere in Italy. Today more than 50 violinmakers hang their hat in Cremona. The Piazza Roma square near Stradivari’s house and workshop contains his tombstone and grave. The city includes the Scuola Internazionale di Liuteria (International School of Violin Making) and the Museo Stradivariano (Stradivarius Museum)

Our next and final stop is the city of Mantua whose population is slightly under fifty thousand. Mantua may have been founded about four thousand years ago. The great Roman poet Virgil was born in a nearby village. In the Twelfth Century Mantua adopted a novel means of protection against invasion, by constructing four artificial lakes surrounding the city. Three of them exist to this day; the fourth dried up during the Eighteenth Century. If you remember your Shakespeare, Romeo fled to Mantua after killing Juliet’s cousin in a swordfight. Talk about a family feud.

Mantua’s Palazzo Ducale was built between the Fourteenth and Seventeenth Centuries and boasts some 500 rooms. Its centerpiece is the Camera degli Sposi (The Wedding Chamber) room that took Andrea Mantegna about seven years to paint. When you see it, you’ll know why. Since you’re only allowed ten minutes to admire this marvelous, unique room you should familiarize yourself with the painting before your allotted time slot. Don’t forget to look up, the ceiling is beautiful.

Finish your tour at the suburban Palazzo Te built in the Sixteenth Century. Unlike many other historic Italian buildings this one was completed in only ten years. In fact its shell went up in eighteen months. In spite of its speedy construction it is considered one of the greatest Renaissance palaces. Don’t forget to tour the Camera di Amore e Psiche (Cupid and Psyche’s Room) showing a wedding with quite interesting and unusual guests and the Camera dei Giganti (Room of the Titans) in which Jupiter expels the Titans from Mount Olympus. The walls are peppered with Seventeenth Century graffiti. Please don’t add your own.

What about food? Of Italy’s twenty regions Lombardy trails only Emilia-Romagna in food production. A lot of the food is of foreign origin, not surprising given the frequency with which Lombardy fell under outside domination. But there are also local specialties. For example, Cremona is known for Mostarda, mustard flavored candied fruits that accompany Bollito Misto, mixed boiled meats. A local version of this treat calls for calf’s head, veal tongue, and pig’s foot among others. Cremona also claims to have invented ravioli.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Zuppa alla Pavese (Soup with Bread, Butter, Eggs, and grated Parmesan Cheese). Then try Bollito Misto (Mixed Boiled Meats). For dessert indulge yourself with Colombe Pasquale (dove shaped Easter Bread with Candied Fruit). Increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Lombardy wine. Lombardy ranks 11th among the 20 Italian regions for both acreage devoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine production. The region produces about 62% red and rose and 38% white wine, but there is little rose. There are 15 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is absolutely no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Over 47% of Lombardy wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. There are three DOCG wines: the sparkling Franciacorta said to compete with French Champagne and priced accordingly, the red Sforzato di Valtellina, and the red Valtellina Superiore.

Lambrusco Mantovano DOC is a red or rose dry or sweet fizzy wine produced southeast of Mantua from local grapes. The San Colombano al Lambro DOC is red or white still or fizzy wine made from a variety of local grapes found about halfway between Milan and Cremona. By far the area’s best-known wine is the Oltrepo Pavese DOC grown south of Pavia, across the Po River, hence its name. This wine, the favorite of Milan, is made in several styles from multiple grape varieties.

Our tour of northern Calabria starts in Diamante, on the western Tyrrhenian coast. Then we head south along the coast as far as Paola and a bit east to Rende. Theoretically we proceed in almost a straight line east, except that the roads are hardly straight and that’s part of the fun, to Cosenza, pop up a bit north to the Parco Nazionale della Calabria, and then southwest to Crotone on the eastern Ionic coast. We follow the coastal road north and east to the little town of Cerchiara di Calabria. We turn left (east) and finish our tour in Castrovillari, about forty-five miles (seventy kilometers) northeast of our starting point.

Diamante (can you guess what the name means?) is a beautiful fishing village of about five thousand on a protective rock along the Mediterranean Sea. Unlike so much of southern Italy, its climate is sunny and yet mild. It’s quite an artist colony, boasting plenty of narrow streets and alleys. Diamante’s walls are covered with murals, an old tradition that is still maintained. You’ll love the century-old stucco houses and their balconies. You’ll never guess which little red objects are hung out to dry on the clotheslines in late summer, red-hot chili peppers. These peperoncini are so much a local specialty that in early September the city holds a Festival de Peperoncini, called “The South’s Carnival” that attracts one hundred thousand visitors. There is dancing in the street, men on stilts, traditional music, and plenty of peroncini-flavored food.

Rende is home to the University of Calabria in the green hills of suburban Cosenza (see below). The city itself has a population of about thirty-five thousand, but the university population is about twenty-five thousand. Stop by on your way to Cosenza, you’ll appreciate the cobblestone streets even if you get a bit winded negotiating the staircases and escalators.

Cosenza’s population is about seventy thousand but almost triples when you consider the urban area including the University. It is located at the confluence of two rivers: the Crathis and the Busento, home of the legend of the Visigoth King Alaric who in the year 410 captured Rome, the first to do so in over eight hundred years. Naturally he amassed quite some treasure. Two years later he died under unclear circumstances. He was buried with his horse and his treasure under the riverbed; the Busento was temporarily turned aside from its course during the grave digging. Once the tomb was completed, the river was returned to its original site and the tomb covered with water. To ensure that no one would reveal this location Alaric’s troops killed all of the slaves. Perhaps not surprisingly his grave and his treasure have never been found. If you like history you can learn about the multiple occupations of this beautiful city and how it was destroyed and rebuilt on several occasions during the first millennium and the following centuries.

Cosenza was known as the Athens of Calabria. Its academy was founded almost five hundred years ago making it one of the first in Italy. To this day Cosenza is home to numerous libraries, museums, and theatres. It is a very picturesque city about seven hundred feet (two hundred forty meters) above sea level. You’ll love the castle and the old town. The Castello Svevo is mostly in ruins, but not for the reasons that you might imagine. First came several earthquakes. Then a lucky (unlucky) lightning strike set off gunpowder stored on the premises.

Nobody is sure when the Duomo (Cathedral) was first built, but estimates favor the mid-Twelfth Century. At that time Calabria was a feudal Norman dukedom and Cosenza was its capital. An earthquake destroyed the cathedral in 1184 and it was rebuilt within forty years. It is one of the most interesting such buildings in southern Italy. Over the years there have been many additions (and subtractions) in a multitude of styles including Baroque, Gothic, and Provencal Gothic.

Be sure to visit the Fifteenth Century Church of San Domenico which combines Renaissance and Medieval elements. Don’t miss the rose window with tufa (limestone) columns, the wooden portal decorated with floral motifs, and the high altar made of polychrome marble. Nearby stands the “Convent of the Virgins” which boasts many historic paintings. Other Cosenza churches include the Church and Monastery of Saint Francis of Assisi, and the Sixteenth Century Church of Sant’Agostino, also known as the Spirito Santo. In this area in 1844 the famous Italian patriots, the Bandiera Brothers, were executed during the struggle for Italian independence.

Of course the new city isn’t going to be as interesting as the old town. But it does include an open-air museum Museo all’aperto Bilotti named for the guy with the checkbook. The sculptures include Saint George and the Dragon by Salvador Dal?br />

Would you believe that there’s lots of good skiing in southern Italy? The Sila is a vast forested kilometer high plateau in the Calabrian interior. This is the largest such formation in all Europe. It is split into three parts and forms the Parco Nazionale della Calabria (Calabria National Park) whose largest section is east of Consenza. Most of the forest has been replanted and, as a sign of ecological health, the park’s symbol the wolf is on the way back. As you may well imagine, local farmers are not overjoyed.

Crotone whose population is approximately sixty thousand was a major city in the days of the Greeks. The famous philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras founded a school here about twenty five hundred years ago. Be sure to see the Ninth to Eleventh Century neo-classical Cathedral home to an icon of the Black Madonna said to come from the East in the early days of the Christian era. Then go by foot to the island and its Sixteenth Century Castle of Charles V, home to the archeological Town Museum.

Cerchiara di Calabria is a town of about three thousand located on the eastern coast of the Ionian Sea. The site has been settled since the days of the Ancient Greeks. It is best known for the Tenth Century Sanctuary of S. Maria delle Armi, which includes a historic pilgrim hospice. The streets are cobblestone, the view is stupendous, and I’m told that the La Locanda di Alia restaurant is out of this world, if you watch the spices.

Castrovillari is the last stop in our tour of northern Calabria. Its population is about twenty two thousand. There is a historic synagogue, a Spanish castle, and a Sixteenth Century Church. Castrovillari is a gateway to the national park mentioned above. But one of the major reasons that people stop by is to visit the La Locanda di Alia restaurant. Next time I’m in the region…

What about food? The Sila mountain range that somewhat resembles the Swiss Alps is famous for its mushrooms, especially porcini and truffles, and Caciocavallo Silano cheese. As good as that sounds, I think I’d like the wild boar even better.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Macco di Fave (Broadbean Soup). Then try Costolette d’agnello alla calabrese (Lamb Chops with Olive Oil, Tomatoes, Sweet Peppers, and Olives). For dessert indulge yourself with Mostaccioli (Anise-flavored Biscuits.) Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a brief look at Calabria wine. Calabria devotes about sixty thousand acres to grapevines; it ranks 13th among the 20 Italian regions for the acreage devoted to wine grapes. About 91% of its wine is red or rose, leaving 9% for white. The region produces twelve DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, often translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. Only 2.4% of Calabria wine carries the DOC designation.

The best-known red wine is Ciro, which some say is the oldest wine in the world. Given the region’s high altitude, temperate climate, and poor-quality soil one can hope for excellent wines. Right now, it’s a question of hope. But sooner or later, as in other regions of southern Italy, Calabria wines should step forward.

We start our Lombardy tour at Bergamo east of the capital Milan. Then we head northeast to the shores of Lake Como and tour the lake in a counterclockwise direction exploring Bellagio, Villa Melzi, and Como at the southern tip of the lake and then head back up north stopping at the island of Isola Comacina, and then finishing our tour at Tremezzo with its centerpiece Villa Carlotta. If you so desire, continue your tour by heading west to Lake Maggiore and Lake Orta. You won’t be disappointed.

Bergamo, population about 120,000, was founded by the Celts well over two thousand years ago. It is the only city mentioned here that is not on or near a lake, but really that shouldn’t stop you from visiting. This medieval city, tucked behind ancient walls, overlooks or perhaps we should say underlooks the Alps. It is divided into two sectors connected by funiculars (cable cars); the older Bergamo Alta (Upper Bergamo) and the modern Bergamo Bassa (Lower Bergamo). Can you guess which Bergamo I prefer?

The large Romanesque Church of Santa Maria Maggiore was started in the Twelfth Century but its construction went on for centuries. The Torre Civica (Bell Tower) was completed towards the end of the Fifteenth Century. The church is right on the Piazza Vecchia (Old Square) in Bergamo Alta. Climb to the top for a great view of the Old City.

Bergamo was the birthplace and home of Gaetano Donizetti (1797-1848), composer of some 75 operas including the famous Lucia di Lammermoor, 16 symphonies, and a multitude of other musical works. He is buried in the Santa Maria Maggiore Church. If you like opera visit the Museo Donizettiano (Donizetti Museum.)

The Cathedral of San Vincenzo and Battistero are both situated on Piazza Duomo (Cathedral Square), the old heart of the medieval city and in all likelihood the heart of the Roman city way back when. Their lovelier neighbor is the Fifteenth Century Renaissance Capella Colleoni (Colleoni Chapel).

Lake Como is a glacial lake shaped like an upside Y. It is about 28 miles (54 kilometers) long and at most 2 miles (3 kilometers) wide making it the third largest lake in Italy. Lake Como is one of the deepest lakes in all Europe.

Bellagio, population three thousand, sits at the center of Lake Como’s Y. It was a tourist center even in the days of the Romans. The famous composers Liszt and Schubert vacationed here, as did the writers Pliny the Elder (Classical Roman), Longfellow, and Shelley. This town is so special that Las Vegas has honored it with a hotel. I don’t need to see both Bellagios to know which one I prefer. Try to get here outside the high season of July and August.

Be sure to see the Villa Serbelloni surrounded by acres and acres of gardens laid out in a multitude of styles. It is now an international conference center for scholars and artists.

Back in 1801-1803 Count Francesco Melzi d’Eril was Vice-President of Napoleon’s Italian Republic. Several years later, perhaps to drown his sorrows over the Republic’s brevity, he built the Neo-Classical Villa Melzi in the south end of Bellagio right on the lake. Its garden, the only part of the Villa open to the public, is said to be the first example of an English garden on Lake Como. The spectacular garden includes a Japanese pond complete with waterlilies surrounded by Japanese maples and cedars, Egyptian sculptures, and Roman statues.

Como, population about sixty thousand, is situated at the very southern tip of Lake Como. Would you believe that it took Lombardy’s capital city Milan nearly a decade to defeat little Como way back in the Twelfth Century? Not very long afterwards, Frederick I, the Holy Roman Emperor, destroyed Milan and built several defensive towers ringing Como. Only the Bardadello Tower still remains. Climb up it and get a great view of the entire lake.

Like most Italian cities, Como has a fine series of old churches to tour. Here are some of them: The Duomo (Cathedral) a Fourteenth Century Renaissance-Gothic structure with statues of two of the city’s most famous residents, Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger from Classical Roman times; San Fedele, an Eleventh Century Romanesque church with a beautifully carved door; and Sant’Agostino, Fourteenth Century Cistercian church proud of its old frescoes and Baroque decorations.

Italy produces over 90% of Europe’s silk and most Italian silk is produced in the Como region. Italian silk is a billion Euro (far exceeding a billion Dollar) industry. Find out more at the Museo Didacttico della Seta (Silk Museum). You can shop for fine silks at many nearby stores and warehouse outlets.

Isola Comacina (Comacina Island) is the only island in Lake Como. Do you remember the lengthy wars between Como and Milan? Well at that time the island residents sided with Milan and there was hell to pay. In the words of the then Bishop “No longer shall bells ring, no stone shall be put on stone, nobody shall be host, under pain of unnatural death.” At the start of World War I Isola Comacina was given to the King of Belgium who donated it to Italy after the war. It now hosts artists and scholars.

Head north to the resort town Tremezzo, population 1300. Its highlight is Villa Carlotta, built during a fifty some year period starting towards the end of the Seventeenth Century. When you see this villa you’ll know why it took so long to construct. The grounds are spectacular including for example more than 150 varieties of azelias and rhododendrons. Its art museum is dedicated to neoclassical art. For a change of pace, visit the Museum of Agricultural Tools located in an ancient greenhouse on the property. While the Villa Carlotta does not rent to tourists, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo is definitely quite classy.

What about food? In this part of Lombardy the cuisine is divided into three main sectors. The lake cuisine specializes in fish with some local favorites such as dried shad. The area around Tremezzo is known for vegetables such as asparagus. The mountain cuisine is based on polenta, a sort of corn bread often flavored with cheese or cheese, butter, and garlic. Other mountain specialties include free-range chickens, kid, and game. The third category is valley cuisine based on cattle and cheese, especially Taleggio and various goat milk cheeses.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Fettuccine con Funghi (Fettuccine with Mushrooms.) Then try Agnoni all Comasca (Lake Como Fried Fish with Anchovy Filets). For dessert indulge yourself with Torte Paradiso con Mascarpone (Sponge Cake with Mascarpone Cheese.) Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Lombardy wine. Lombardy ranks number 11 of the 20 Italian regions when it comes to acreage devoted to wine grapes and the total annual wine production. The region produces about 62% red and ros?nd 38% white wine, but there is little ros?There are 15 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Over 47% of Lombardy wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. There are three DOCG wines: the sparkling Franciacorta said to compete with French Champagne and priced accordingly, the red Sforzato di Valtellina, and the red Valtellina Superiore.

Interestingly enough no DOC wines originate in the vicinity of Lake Como, Lake Orta, or Lake Maggiore. However, Bergamo is home to two DOC wines, Valcalepio and Scanzo/Moscato di Scanzo. The Valcalepio DOC is vinified in several styles. The dry red and the dry white come from international grape varieties such as Merlot and Chardonnay. The sweet white wine comes from a local grape and has recently been classified at the Scanzo/Moscato di Scanzo DOC. I have not had the pleasure of tasting either of these wines. I have had the disappointment of tasting the sparkling Franciacorta DOCG wine made not far east of Bergamo.

Our tour of southern Veneto resembles a circle; one that isn’t quite closed. We start our tour in the central Veneto city of Vicenza, one of the wealthiest cities in Italy. We bypass Padua and go southeast to the coastal town of Chioggia. Then we head back southwest to Rovigo, and then finish our tour by going northwest to Montagnana. We could continue north back to Vicenza. Or we could visit other parts of Veneto.

Vicenza, population one hundred twenty thousand, has had a checkered past. Over the centuries it passed from one occupier to another. Its heyday was in the Sixteenth Century as the home of Andrea Palladio, often said to be the most influential person in the history of Western architecture. He designed many of the city’s buildings and all over the Veneto region. About two dozen of his Veneto villas compose a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Palladio was a major influence on Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, and probably on half of the state capitol buildings in the United States. Don’t even think about touring Vicenza without visiting several of his masterpieces.

The Teatro Olimpico (Olympic Theatre) is Palladio’s last work and one of his best. It is widely considered the first modern example of an enclosed theater. Actually he died six months into its construction but this magnificent building was completed from his sketches and drawings. The building includes five hallways designed to look like streets; each spectator has a view of at least one street. Unfortunately the theater was abandoned after a few performances. The Teatro Olimpico now hosts productions, but only in the summer because winter heating might damage its fragile wood structures.

Palazzo Chiericati is a Renaissance palace that took well over a century to complete. It was built in an area called Piazza dell’Isola (Island Square, now Piazza Matteotti), surrounded by two streams. It became the Museo Civico (Town Museum) in 1855 and, more recently, the City’s Art Gallery.

We have left arguably Palladio’s greatest work for last. Villa La Rotunda whose full name is Villa Almerico-Capra in honor of the Capra brothers who finished the building. This villa was inspired by the Pantheon in Rome and has been the inspiration for perhaps a thousand buildings across the globe. Strictly speaking Villa La Rotunda should not be called a rotunda; it isn’t circular but takes the shape of a cross grafted on a square. While the edifice appears completely symmetrical in fact it isn’t. No mistake here, it was designed to fit perfectly into its surroundings and the city of Vicenza on the horizon. Neither Palladio nor its owner lived to see it completed.

Chioggia whose population is some fifty thousand was once the center of local salt production. Perhaps that’s why Genoa destroyed it more than six hundred years ago. Chioggia returned as a fishing port and a tourist attraction. It’s on the Venetian Lagoon about an hour’s boat ride from Venice that it resembles with its canals and Venetian architecture. You’ll enjoy strolling on the Corso del Popolo (the People’s Thoroughfare) with its cafes, restaurants and shops. Chioggia’s Cathedral is old enough to have been restored in the Fourteenth Century. Other sites of interest include the Campanile (Bell Tower) about two hundred ten feet (sixty four meters) high and the Fourteenth Century Gothic church of San Martino.

The town of Rovigo, population about fifty thousand, is rich in history and culture. Its most famous cultural institution is the St. Stephen Cathedral built prior to the Eleventh Century and rebuilt in the Fifteenth and the Seventeenth Centuries. Be sure to see its interior artwork. Other churches worth visiting include the Thirteenth Century Immacolata Concezione (Immaculate Conception), and the Fourteenth-Fifteenth Century Gothic-Romanesque Church of St. Francis.

Several Rovigo Piazzas (Squares) have maintained their historic character. The largest is dedicated to Emperor Victor Emmanuel II and is the site of several palaces. Palazzo Nodari has become the city hall. Palazzo Roncale has become Pinacoteca dei Concordi (Concordi Gallery), one of the most important art galleries in Veneto. The building dates back to the end of the Sixteenth Century and many displayed paintings predate the building itself. The Fifteenth Century Gothic Duomo (Cathedral) faces this Piazza. Given its many restorations and renovations Romanesque and Renaissance period features abound. The Piazza has a statue to the emperor and a Saint Mark’s lion.

How can you tell if a Veneto town is peaceful or not? The answer is quite simple; go to its Leone di San Marco (Saint Mark’s Lion) statue. Take a close look at the tail. If the tail points down the town is peaceful. If it points up watch out; there may be trouble. The tail on Rovigo’s lion pointed down. This call for peace didn’t stop Napoleon’s soldiers from destroying the statue. The statue that you see today was erected in 1881, and its tail still points down.

Montagnana, population about nine thousand, is a medieval city surrounded by walls with four gates and twenty-four fortified towers resembling castles. This city is really unique and you should see it from outside the walls when the sun is setting. Montagnana dates back to the Thirteenth Century when the town was rebuilt. Its highlight is the Castello San Zeno (Saint Zeno Castle) built by the infamous Italian dictator Ezzelino da Romano, who previously ordered the city burnt to the ground. Mister da Romano actually merited mention in Dante’s Divine Comedy where his soul was consigned to you know where. In a sense one has to thank him for one majestic castle, originally set inside a dry moat and built around a center courtyard. The moat, crossed by a drawbridge, was filled in during the 19th century. The Castle’s highest tower, the mastio or donjon, is open to the public and provides fabulous views. Castle San Zeno also houses the Municipal Historical Archive, the town Library, a Theatre Company, and a Study Center devoted to the protection of the castle and its surroundings, with quite a collection of books, maps, artifacts, and other items of historical significance.

What about food? Despite the great variety of food in this once poor but now fairly well off part of Italy many people often ate foods that we might find strange. I’m not talking about lamb and sheep’s milk cheese from the Rovigo area. Pigeon is a specialty both in Padua and other localities. A Padua specialty that I haven’t tasted is made from salted, dried, and smoked horsemeat.

We’ll suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Risotto Nero (Risotto with Cuttlefish). If you don’t like Cuttlefish and its ink you won’t have trouble finding many other Risottos. Then try Baccal?antecato (Dried Cod with Nutmeg, Parsley, and Olive Oil). For dessert indulge yourself with Salame al Cioccolato (Chocolate Salami, Shortbread Biscuits, Figs, Butter, and Cocoa). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude with a quick look at Veneto wine. Veneto ranks 3rd among the 20 Italian regions both for the area planted in grape vines and for its total annual wine production. About 45% of Veneto wine is red or ros?leaving 55% for white. The region produces 24 DOC wines and 3 DOCG wines, Recioto di Soave, Soave Superiore, and Bardolino Superiore. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Almost 30% of Venetian wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation.

Bardolino Superiore DOCG is produced west and northwest of Verona near Lake Garda from a variety of Italian and international red grapes. This wine is living proof that Garantita is no guarantee of high quality, some are and some are not.

Are you aware that Italy is subdivided into twenty regions? Each and every one is different, and well worth touring. Some such as Piedmont are world famous. Others such as Bascilicata are almost never visited by foreigners, or even by Italians themselves.

Italy can be divided into three major sections: Northern Italy, sharing a border with four European countries (France, Switzerland, Austria, and Slovenia), Central Italy, and the South, traditionally the poorest part of Italy.

Northern Italy is composed of eight regions: The Aosta Valley, Piedmont (whose capital is Turin), Lombardy (whose capital is Milan), Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto (whose capital is Venice), Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria (whose capital is Genoa). Central Italy is composed of six regions: Tuscany (whose capital is Florence), Umbria, The Marches, Abruzzi, Molise, and Latium (whose capital is Rome). Southern Italy is composed of six regions: Apulia, Campania (whose capital is Naples), Basilicata, Calabria, and the islands of Sicily (whose capital is Palermo) and Sardinia.

Each article will present a region and several of its tourist attractions. We love Italian wine and food (as expressed in our series I Love Italian Wine and Food), so we’ll present regional wines and foods of special interest.

Because we’ll be discussing regional wines, let’s briefly look at the Italian wine classifications. These classifications will also come in handy if you’re an armchair tourist and want to enjoy Italian wine at home or in your favorite restaurant. Wine and Food Classification. In 1963 Italy legally defined four wine classifications that presumably help consumers choose their wine. While most wine producing countries have instituted official wine classifications, arguably the Italian system is the most controversial, possibly the most abused, and probably the most ignored by the wine producers themselves. Should you learn a bit about them anyway? We think so.

VdT stands for Vino da Tavola, translated as table wine. Table wines may be made from any grape, or mixture of grapes, anywhere within Italy. Usually they are quite ordinary, and in Italy are often served directly from the barrel. And yet on occasion VdT wines are excellent and priced accordingly.

IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, which may be translated as Typical Geographic Indication, in other words a wine that typifies its specific location. This classification specifies the wine’s geography but is silent about its composition and production method. As for the previous category, sometimes IGT wines are excellent.

DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin. Each and every region has at least one DOC wine, but some have dozens. A given DOC defines the permissible grape or grape varieties as well as numerous details about the grape growing and wine making process. About one fifth of Italian wine is classified DOC or better. Such a statistic should warn you that a DOC on the label is no guarantee of quality.

DOCG stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Guarantita, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin. Please realize that this letter G on the label is no guarantee of quality. But you can expect to pay more for a DOCG wine than for its less prestigious DOC cousin.

Unlike most countries, Italy has gone to the trouble to set up an extensive classification system for food, all kinds of food including olive oil, cheese, and even fruit. Look for the term Denominazione d’Origine Protetta, abbreviated as DOP, which may be translated as Denomination of Protected Origin. You’ll have to decide on your own if it’s worth paying a bit more to buy a certified orange.

Have you had enough of the generalities? It is time to move on to the specific Italian regions.

Basilicata’s population is only slightly above six hundred thousand. While quite mountainous this is the only region of Italy in which farm workers outnumber industrial workers. Up until the 1970s it steadily lost population to other Italian regions and to emigration abroad. But all is not lost. Its east coast has become an important agricultural area. And the mountainous interior with poor soil and lots of sun; what could be better for producing fine wine? Let’s not forget that many consider Basilicata’s native Aglianico (also found in Campania) to be Italy’s third best red grape, after Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. It sounds like there could be a major breakthrough in Basilicata’s wine industry.

We’ll start our tour of this region in the northeast at Matera. Then we head south and east to Potenza. From there we go southeast to Aliano and then south and east to Terranova di Pollino and the Parco Nazionale. If you want a bit of seaside you could continue to the little town of Maratea on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. When driving in this part of the world, you’ll need a good map and good reflexes; the roads here don’t always go directly from Point A to Point B and rarely go in a straight line.

Matera, population sixty thousand, lies just south of the Apulia border. This area has been settled since Palaeolithic times, in other words for at least twelve thousand years. The Romans claimed to have founded the city in the Third Century B. C. Like so many other parts of Italy it was occupied by an almost never-ending stream of invaders. One of the proudest moments in Matera’s history was in September 1943 when it rose against the German invaders, the first Italian city to do so. We’ll start by visiting some typical sights and finish with something truly unique.

Matera’s Duomo (Cathedral) dates from the Thirteenth Century and was built in the Apulian-Romanesque style (Apulia is the region north of Basilicata, its architecture reflects Greek, Arab, and Norman influences.) There are frescoes and sculptures to admire. Check to see if the Thirteenth Century Romanesque Church of San Giovanni Battista has been reopened for tourists. If so, stop by. But these sights pale in comparison to Matera’s unique old town in which the streets are often rooftops and the houses, churches, and chic restaurants are caves, hewn out of solid rock.

The Sassi di Matera (Stones of Matera) are caves that have been occupied continuously by human beings for an estimated nine thousand years. At twenty years per generation, (remember they didn’t wait to finish law school before starting a family in those days) this works out to an incredible 450 generations possibly living in the same neighborhood. The area has been named a World Heritage Site and numerous bars and restaurants now take advantage of this unique location. What a turnaround from the days when Matera because of the Sassi was called ”la vergogna nazionale,” Italy’s shame.

Potenza with a population slightly under 70 thousand is the capital of Basilicata. Here in a famous battle Carthage definitively lost to Rome. The city has known numerous invasions and earthquakes, the latest in 1980. During the Second World War the Allies heavily bombarded Potenza. Monuments to see include the Twelfth Century St. Gerard Cathedral, and the Eleventh Century Church of San Francesco which includes a Renaissance painting entitled Madonna del Terremoto (Our Lady of the Earthquake). The Romanesque Church St. Michael the Archangel was also built in the Twelfth Century as was the Church of St. Mary of the Sepulcher. You should also see the Castle’s Tower built prior to the year 1000 and the ruins of a Norman fort, probably built on Roman and Byzantine foundations. All in all there’s a lot of old stuff to see for a small provincial capital that was almost destroyed by earthquakes.

With less than twelve hundred inhabitants you might be tempted to skip the village of Aliano. Don’t, it’s living proof of the phrase – good things come in small packages. The scenery is spectacular; cliffs and rivers, and gullies, and local growing things include olive, peach, and citrus trees. This lovely scenery may be typical of the region. However, unlike any neighboring village Aliano is famous thanks to an involuntary visitor who stopped by more than seventy years ago. Between May, 1935 and October, 1936 Aliano was the home in exile of the well-known author Carlo Levi. Levi, a painter educated as a doctor, was a founder of an Italian anti-Mussolini movement. This explains his unintentional extended Aliano visit. Once released from exile Levi spent two years in France but returned to Italy and was imprisoned once again. After the war he wrote a book, Christ Stopped at Eboli, about his Aliano experiences. This book exposed the problem of poverty in Southern Italy to the relatively prosperous North. Levi served nine years in the Italian Senate where he continued his fight against poverty. He is buried in the village. The house where he lived is still standing; it is now the Museo Storico Carlo Levi (Carlo Levi Historical Museum).

Terranova di Pollino is a mountain village in southern Basilicata very close to Calabria. It lies at the entrance to the Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Pollino National Park) the largest in Italy at just under 750 square miles (more than 1900 square kilometers.) Let’s quote their website “With its 192,565 hectares, Pollino National Park, the largest protected area in Italy between Calabria and Basilicata, has a wealth of landscapes to offer: great areas of wilderness where the cuirassed pine -the true emblem of the park- clings to the rocky slopes as the wind shapes its twisted trunk; close by there are rolling hills and valleys, lush slopes with flowering plants in springtime, and then endless upland plains where the sheep still graze like in ancient times.”

But that’s not all. The park is home to a wide variety of endangered species. Many fossils have been found including a very well preserved skeleton of a giant elephant that lived between 400,000 and 700,000 years ago. Other fossils date from the time when dinosaurs ruled the earth. Historic churches abound in the neighboring villages. Many of these villages are home to ethnic Albanians who managed to maintain their language and culture for over five hundred years. Look for their festivals during the spring and summer months.

What about food? Basilicata is very traditional when it comes to cooking. As expected in an economically deprived area meat consumption is limited. The major meat is pork and the locals know how to extract the maximum from their porkers. Hot peppers are popular and can be quite hot. Basilicata bread is consumed in many parts of Italy. Locals make a special pasta from wheat and lard. The Pollino mountains are famous for their wild mushrooms and for game.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Zuppa di Pesce alla Santavenere (Ionian Fish and Seafood Soup). Then try Spezzatino di Agnello (Lamb stewed in an earthenware pot). For dessert indulge yourself with Frittelle alla Lucana (Doughnuts). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude with a quick look at Basilicata wine. Basilicata ranks 17th among the 20 Italian regions for the acreage devoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine production. About 73% of the wine produced is red or ros?leaving 27% white. The region produces two DOC wines, Aglianico del Vulture and Terre dell Alta Val d’Agri. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. Only 2.4% of Bascilicata wine carries the DOC designation.

If you like powerful wines, try the Aglianico del Vulture from a local grape that grows on the extinct Mount Vulture volcano or its surrounding hills. This wine may be cellared for up to twenty years. The sparkling version may be either dry or sweet. The red Terre dell Alta Val d’Agri is made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and possibly some local red grapes. The rose version may include some local white grapes as well.

Verona. I don’t know about you, but I never hear this word without thinking of the phrase, Two Gentlemen of Verona, a not particularly well-known Shakespeare play. Verona was the setting of a particularly well-known Shakespeare play, Romeo and Juliet. This city of over a quarter million souls has a long and bloody history. Its residents are proud that on an Easter Monday more than two hundred years ago they drove out the French occupiers. The German writer Goethe and the French writers Stendhal and Valery included Verona in their travel diaries. The Roman emperor Julius Caesar spent a lot of time here, and probably enjoyed many of the sights described next.

Verona has quite a collection of vestiges from its Roman days. We’ll start with its Roman amphitheatre, the third largest in Italy. This structure is approximately 400 feet (140 meters) long and 350 feet (110 meters) wide, giving it a seating capacity of about 25,000 spectators in 44 tiers of marble seats. While only fragments of the outer walls remain, its fine interior is virtually intact. This edifice often hosts fairs, theatre, opera and other public events, especially during the summer.

A First Century B.C. Roman theatre was subsequently transformed into a housing site. In the Eighteenth Century the houses were demolished and the site restored. Nearby you’ll find the Ponte di Pietra (Stone Bridge), a Roman arch bridge crossing the Adige River, completed in 100 B.C. Retreating German troops destroyed four of the bridge arches in World War II but the bridge was rebuilt in 1957 using original materials.

You should also visit the First Century Arco dei Gavi (Gavi Arch) straddling the Corso Cavour; once the main road into the city. Look for the architect’s signature, a rarity for the times. French troops destroyed this arch in 1805, and it was rebuilt only in 1932.

Porta Borsari, an archway at the end of the Corso Porta Borsari street, is the fa?e of a Third Century gate within the original Roman city walls. This street is lined with several Renaissance Palaces. Porta Leoni (Leoni Gate) is all that remains of a First Century B.C. Roman city gate. Parts of it have been incorporated into a wall of a medieval building. Even in those days some people believed in recycling. You can see the remains of the original Roman street and the gateway foundations if you look slightly below the present street level.

The Twelfth Century Romanesque Duomo (Cathedral) was constructed on the site of two Palaeo-Christian churches destroyed by an earthquake much earlier in the century. The site includes an unfinished Sixteenth Century bell tower. Be sure to see the chapel adorned with Titian’s Assumption.

Verona’s largest church is the Fifteenth Century Sant’Anastasia whose interior is considered one of northern Italy’s finest examples of Gothic architecture, and believe me this competition includes many entries. The construction of this magnificent edifice took nearly two hundred years. Among its items of honor are frescoes and hunchback statues that serve to dispense holy water. Some say that touching a hunchback’s hump brings good luck. Maybe next time.

San Fermo Maggiore is in reality two churches. The tomblike lower Romanesque church dates from the Eighth Century. The huge Fourteenth Century Gothic upper church is notable for its ceiling festooned with the paintings of four hundred saints. While there are more churches to see in Verona we will next look at castles and palaces.

The Fourteenth Century Castelvecchio (Old Castle) was built on the banks of the Adige River near the Ponte Scaligero (Scaligero Bridge), most likely on the site of a Roman fortress. Built to protect against foreign invaders and popular rebellions, it included a fortified bridge in case the owners had to flee north to join their allies in the Tyrol. Over the years the castle has known many renovations and restorations. Make sure to visit its art museum, specializing in Venetian painters and sculptors.

Those Scaligeris spent a lot of their time in the Palazzo degli Scaligeri, their medieval palace, which today, as then, is closed to the general public. But you can go next door to the Arche Scaligere with its Gothic tombs of selected members of the family.

The Italian Piazza is a meeting place. Verona has some special examples. The Piazza delle Erbe (Herb Square) has been around since the days of the Romans. For ages it was a fruit and vegetable market but now is geared to tourists. It still maintains its medieval look and some of the produce stalls. The Piazza dei Signori (Gentlemen’s Square) is Verona’s center of activities as it has been for centuries. This square is right next door to the Scaglieri Palace. Those gentlemen didn’t believe in commuting.

We can’t leave Verona without visiting those star-crossed lovers, Romeo and Juliet. The Twelfth Century Casi di Giulietta (Juliet’s House) long belonged to the Dal Cappello family and since it’s not a long way from Cappello to Capulet perhaps… This lovely house even possesses a courtyard balcony. Yes, the house at Via Cappello, 23 probably isn’t the real thing, but crowds come to gawk and dream. This could be the place to propose marriage.

What about food? Verona’s cuisine features typical dishes of the Po Valley plains: mixed boiled meats, nervetti (calf’s foot and veal shank salad), and risotto, often prepared with a healthy douse of Amarone wine. The Piazza delle Erbe still has some fruit and vegetable stalls selling local produce such as radicchio and asparagus. Not only the wine is classified. Verona boasts a classified cheese, Monte Veronese. But who would think that rice is also classified? The Riso Nano Vialone Veronese is a laboratory-developed rice that was first introduced into the area in 1945. It now represents 90% of the local production. Is it better than other rice? Locals obviously think so. I promise that I will taste it on my next trip to Verona.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Gnocchi (Small Potato Dumplings). Then try Pastissada de Caval (Horsemeat Stew, often simmered in wine). For dessert indulge yourself with Pandoro di Verona (Verona Butter Cream Cake). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude with a quick look at Veneto wine. Veneto ranks 3rd among the 20 Italian regions for the area planted in grape vines and for its total annual wine production. About 45% of Veneto wine is red or rose, leaving 55% for white. The region produces 24 DOC wines and 3 DOCG wines, Recioto di Soave, Soave Superiore, and Bardolino Superiore. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Almost 30% of Venetian wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation.

Valpolicella DOC is a world famous wine produced north of Verona from several local red grapes. This wine is usually nothing to write home about and often tastes of cooked cherries. But that is hardly the end of the Valpolicella story. Valpolicella Ripasso is made from young Valpolicella wine put into tanks or barrels containing the lees (one could say dregs, but that might give the wrong impression) of a recioto wine (see below). The mixture undergoes a secondary fermentation and becomes a more interesting wine. Valpolicella Recioto is made from passito grapes, those dried on mats for several months. It may be a still wine, a fizzy wine, or a sparkling wine. Valpolicella Recioto is sweet or bittersweet. Amarone DOC is a type of Valpolicella Recioto whose sugar has been completely transformed into alcohol becoming a powerful tasting wine that packs a punch and ages well. What a difference between Amarone and its source wine, Valipolcella.

Well start our tour at Cerveteri about 25 miles (40 kilometers) northwest of Rome. Well head along the sea northwest past Romes port, Civitvecchia, and stop at Tarquinia. Then well travel inland (northeast) to Tuscania, Viterbo, Bagnaia, and then southeast to the village of Caprarola. We then head almost directly north to finish our tour at Bomarzo not far from the Umbrian border. (It might be a bit shorter to go from Bagnaia to Bomarzo and then to Caprarola but as you will see, we have our reasons for following the first itinerary.) Before we start this tour we will introduce a onetime major player, the Etruscans.

The Etruscans were a people who dominated large parts of Italy including Latium from an unknown prehistoric period up until the Roman Empire. We dont know much about their origins, language, culture, or their way of life. Much of our knowledge about this formerly powerful people can be seen on our tours of Latium. An important book about the Etruscans, Sketches of Etruscan Places and other Italian Essays (1932), was written by the British Author D. H. Lawrence, better known for another work, Lady Chatterlys Lover.

Cerveteri, population about thirty thousand, was once the Etruscan city of Caere. UNESCO has classified Cerveteri as a World Heritage Site because of its Etruscan tombs. It is the largest ancient necropolis in the Mediterranean area. These tombs, and there are over a thousand of them, date from the Ninth Century B.C. to the Third Century B. C. Other local sights worth seeing include the Rocca castle, the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Sixteenth Century Palazzo Ruspoli, not to be confused with a Palace of the same name in Florence. The nearby village of Ceri sits at the top of a fortified plateau. Its main attraction is the Romanesque Church of the Madonna of Ceri, built on a site originally dedicated to the worship of the goddess Vesta. In 1980 during renovations, Twelfth Century frescos of Biblical scenes were uncovered.

Tarquinia whose population numbers about sixteen thousand is the site of about six thousand Etruscan tombs, some of which are decorated by wall paintings. The National Museum housed in the Fifteenth Century Palazzo Vitelleschi is known for its archeological contents. Tarquinia is home to a cathedral, several churches including two from the Twelfth Century (San Martino and St. John the Baptist), the Palazzo dei Priori, and several medieval towers.

Tuscania, population somewhat under eight thousand, was founded almost three thousand years ago but the area itself has been populated for perhaps eight or ten thousand years. Unfortunately Tuscania’s medieval city walls were mostly destroyed in a 1971 earthquake but they have been repaired and the interior is nicely landscaped. Like its neighbors, Tuscania is the site of many Etruscan tombs including the Tomb of the Queen, a series of labryinths containing about thirty tunnels. If you are like me, you prefer seeing other sights. Tuscania will not disappoint you. For example, there are several churches of great architectural interest and palaces aplenty. And you can visit the National Archeological Museum, but many of the displays are tomb-related.

Viterbo was formerly the popes’ favorite residence. Its historic old center is among the best preserved towns of central Italy. Be sure to see the Palazzo dei Papi (Papal Palace) and the Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo, built by the Lombards over the ruins of an Etruscan Temple dedicated to Hercules. This building also served as a Papal residence. Pope John XXI died here in 1277 when the ceiling collapsed as he was sleeping. The Plaza di San Lorenzo contains several other buildings of interest. The medieval district of San Pellegrino is quite well preserved and definitely worth visiting. Viterbo is home to a spa with a gigantic limestone pool of very hot water. Its volcanic mud is highly recommended for those who like that sort of thing. I am told that the Enoteca La Torre has an extensive wine list. The Tre Re restaurant has been a fixture of Viterbos old town since 1622.

The nearby village of Bagnaia was the personal fiefdom of the bishops of Viterbo for centuries. It is best known for its magnificent Sixteenth Century water gardens, Villa Lante. There are two sets of buildings, built for two bishops, one of whom was known for living simply. Highlights include a Moorish fountain, a boxtree maze, and two casinos.

Neighboring Caprarola is the site of the Sixteenth Century Farnese Palace. This Palace was built for Cardinal Alessandro II Farnese, nephew of Pope Paul III, within ten years of construction of the Villa Lante. The two sites were built by the same architect, but in a very different style. Here you go to see the palace, although its park is nothing to sneer at. In fact, in many parts of the world, the Farnese Palace park would merit a visit on its own. We suggest that you see the Villa Lante and the Farnese Palace and compare. One thing is certain, the Sixteenth Century Italian upper class sure knew how to live.

You probably havent seen anything like Bomarzo. The villages main attraction is yet another Sixteenth Century garden, alternately known as Bosco Sacro (Sacred Grove) and Bosco di Mostri (Monsters Grove). It was built by a hunchbacked patron of the arts to honor his deceased wife. Some say that she died of heart failure after seeing the park. For centuries this park was neglected but now has been restored. The dozens of monster statues including Hanging House, the Dragon, the Ogre, and the Etruscan Bench with its inscription “You who travel the world, in search of great and beautiful wonders, come here, where there are horrible faces, elephants, lions, bear and dragons” seem strewn about aimlessly. This is probably as good a place as any to end your tour of western Latium.

What about food? Latium cuisine is one of abundance, perhaps in part because of the volcanic soil. The best cuts of meat were reserved for the rich and the poor had to make do with the rest, including feet, heart, kidneys, tongue, and tripe. Lets not forget the pasta, said to be among the best in Italy. Fettuccine Alfredo comes from this region. Lets suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Carciofi alla Guidea (Deep fried Artichokes). Then try Porchetta (Roast Suckling Pig). For dessert indulge yourself with Ciambella (Pastry with Sweetened Grapes and Carmelized Chestnuts). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

Well finish this article with a peek at Latium wine. More than four out of five bottles produced here are white. There are twenty five DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine, twenty of them white. However, only about 6% of Latium wine is so classified. Frankly, the region is not known for its wine. It once was; in the distant past Falernum, a Latium red was the hit of Ancient Rome. Who knows, perhaps one day the region will regain its former glory when it comes to wine. In the meantime, there is lots to see and lots to eat. And plenty of fine Italian wines are available. North of Latium is Umbria, and north of Umbria is Tuscany. Cantina Colacicchis Torre Ercolana is a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend from Latium that comes highly recommended but I have yet to taste it.